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There once arrived at our house a person completely unknown to us, an unmarried lady of about forty, in a little red hat and with a sharp chin and angry dark eyes. On the strength…
Every cuisine tells a story. Jewish food tells the story of an uprooted, migrating people and their vanished worlds. It lives in people’s minds and has been kept alive because of what it evokes and…
I spent five years at “Lechem Erez” in Herzliya. During those years, we created at “Lechem Erez” a simple cuisine inclined to use herbs and dwarf leaves, balady vegetables and local fruits, fresh meat…
Food was important not just as a means of survival, but also because, as Ma repeatedly told me, “it’s made with love that makes it taste so good.” As a toddler, perched on a chair, I watched each step…
[ . . . ] In the early autumn of 1918 we entered a new circle of Bolshevik hell, the period of mass Red Terror. The murder of Uritskii and…
Sephardic cooking in Salonica was based, until the Greek occupation of 1912, on sesame seed oil, which in the Judeo-Spanish dialect was called by the name of azeite de giungili…
My mother often sent me shopping to 18th Avenue (not a far distance, but for a kid it was unfamiliar territory), the district of Middle Eastern groceries, whose shopkeepers were…
Miriam Steinberg of Highland Park, Illinois, would never think of making her weekly challah without first separating some dough, reciting a blessing over it, and then burning it in the oven, in…
Bread, bread. The abundance of it dazzles your eyes. In the windows, on the stalls, in hands, in baskets. I won’t be able to hold out if I can’t grab a bite or bread-stuff. “Grab? You don’t look…
Mordkhe Spektor [1858–1925] was the “honorary chair” of the “Society of Gluttons and Drunkards.” Though he had not been elected to this “post,” everyone felt that Spektor was the singular candidate…